With ALL THE LOUD CHEERS FOR FRESH AND local foods today, I assumed dried fruits were benched players in the fruit world. But I was wrong. After strolling the aisles of a grocery store recently, I found a variety of dried fruits that my grandmother never dreamed about. Near the produce department,bulk bins were filled with three kinds of raisins--Sultana, Flame, and Thompson; there were also currants, Turkish and California apricots, prunes, dates, and dried peaches. On a nearby display were colorful bags of dried berries, cherries, figs, cranberries, and mangos and super-sized bags of crispy banana chips. Later, I visited a natural foods store and discovered an extensive dried fruit assortment, most boasting 'certified organic' labels.
Drying is the oldest form of food preservation, and dried fruits have roots that extend back to 2900 B.C. in the Sumarian civilization. Figs were the first dried fruit mentioned in written records. Everyone loved them; even Cleopatra adored them. In ancient Egypt, ripe figs and dates fell from trees and dried naturally in the hot, dry climate. The first dried grapes (raisins) were probably plucked and eaten straight from the vine. The Egyptians incorporated the dried fruits into fruitcakes. In Rome, dried figs and raisins were awarded to winning Olympic athletes.
Raisins, figs, dates, and dried apricots sailed into foreign ports and became coveted trade items. They enhanced cuisines everywhere they were traded. Germans kneaded raisins into stollen, a traditional Christmas bread. Italians blended raisins, citron, pine nuts, and anise into panettone (yeast cakes). Russians stirred candied fruits and raisins into kulich (traditional Easter cakes), and the British were crazy about fruitcakes during Victorian times. In France, pruneau (prunes) were used as filling for rich tart shells. (Plums are called prunes in France, while prunes are called pruneau.) In India, dried apricots were chopped for chutneys and stirred into curries.
Spanish explorers brought dried fruits across the Atlantic to the Caribbean and North and Central America. In Jamaica, minced dried fruits were blended into batter for rum-soaked cakes. In North America, in the mid-1800s, emigrants who traveled the Oregon Trail frequently stewed a pot of dried apples, peaches, raisins, and currants for compotes, savory and sweet pies, or crullers.
In 1873, William Thompson's seedless grape crop in California accidentally dried, and the first commercial raisin crop was created. These 'accidental' raisins were supposedly sold as exotic Peruvian delicacies in San Francisco. Now, Thompson grapes are the most widely cultivated grapes in California.
During World War II, prunes played a curious part in British military spy history. Prunes were soaked and softened, and the pits were extracted. After the prunes dried, miniscule maps of escape routes sealed in waxed paper were stuffed into the empty cavity. Then, the prunes were packed in Red Cross parcels and smuggled to prisoners of war. Two of the original prunes with maps weren't sent but saved as souvenirs; they were sold at an auction in 2006.
In my family, my grandmother added raisins to cookies and pies, and my mom put dried fruits in the jelled salads of the '50s. In the '70s, I made trails mixes and granola with dried fruits for quick snacks. In 1978, after purchasing a thin yellow book called Dry It--You'll Like It by Gen MacManiman, I decided to dehydrate our own bumper crop of plums. I rigged a small metal platform over our wood stove to dry them, but after our German Shepherd upset the tray and devoured the evidence, I invested in a dehydrator. My dehydrator still dries cherries, apricots, nectarines, figs, and apples.
VARIETY
Big nutrition in little packages, dried fruit contains abundant minerals, antioxidants, and fiber. Each piece contains the same amount of calories as its fresh counterpart. This list highlights some common dried fruits and discusses their varieties and characteristics:
* Apricots provide some beta-carotene. Turkish apricots are very sweet and soft; California apricots are tart with a chewy texture. Both varieties are grown in California.
* Cherries come in either sweet or sour varieties. Like other fruits, sweet cherries and sour cherries contain phytonutrients that could reduce the risk of cancer. The sour pie cherries are so fragile they never make it to the grocery store fresh but are available at farmers' markets in May to July. Most dried sour cherries are sweetened; look for the fruit-sweetened varieties in natural foods stores.
* Cranberries have been used for decades to prevent urinary tract infections.
* Currants are very small, intensely flavored fruits made from Zante grapes. (See raisins.) They are not usually eaten raw but used instead for making raisins and occasionally wine.
* Dates are a good source of iron and potassium. Intensely sweet, there are many varieties; Deglet Noor is a popular super-sweet North African date. Medjools are fresh dates sold in the produce aisle.
* Dried figs offer calcium and provide more fiber than prunes. They also contain potassium, iron, and manganese. Black Mission, Kadota, Calimyrna, and Brown Turkey are common dried varieties.
* Prunes provide magnesium and copper. Although any plum can be dried, commercial growers tend to use the sweetest varieties for prunes. If you have a plum tree, it's fun to see how your own plum variety stacks up.
* Raisins (and currants) provide iron, potassium, and fiber. Muscat raisins are rumored to be the best tasting, but 95 percent of the California raisin crop is from Thompson seedless grapes. Tender, with delicate flavors, Sultana raisins are made from white grapes.
SELECTION
When selecting dried fruits, I choose organic dried varieties because, as the fruits dry, they lose up to 90 percent of their moisture, and everything (including toxic pesticide traces) becomes more concentrated. Fresh apples, imported grapes, peaches, nectarines, pears, and cherries contain the most chemical residues, so when possible, purchase organic varieties or dehydrate organic fruits at home. Also, organically grown, dehydrated fruits are not treated with sulfur, an additive that maintains colors and helps to keep dried fruits fresh. Sulfur may cause allergic reactions.
STORAGE
Store dried fruits in a dark place at approximately 60 degrees. They can be stored for up to one year or refrigerated for up to 18 months. I refrigerate all my dried fruits to extend the lifespan. As the fruits age, tiny white spots may appear on the skin; this is a natural sugaring where fruit sugar crystallizes on the surface. You can freeze dried fruits for even longer storage.
To rehydrate fruit, cover with boiling water and allow it to sit two hours or longer. Some nutrients are leached into the water, so make sure that you use the soaking water, too.
USAGE
Dried fruits can enhance dishes year-round, so keep a variety on hand. Raisins, currants, prunes, dates, apricots, and dried sour cherries are staples in my kitchen.
There are so many easy ways to incorporate dried fruits into standard fare, and doing so can make many otherwise ordinary dishes extraordinary. Mix dried, fruit-sweetened cranberries into coleslaw or currants into carrot-apple salads. Use dried fruits to top green salads, or blend them into whole grain salads, braised vegetables, and curried dishes. Stir these dried treasures into cakes, cookies, breads, puddings, and porridge. Bake dried fruit-studded cobblers, pies, and bread puddings. Toss a handful of raisins or dried cherries into soup, stew, or pot pie. You can even make smoothies with pureed, soaked dried fruits; water; lemon or orange juice; a banana; and a little almond butter blended for a creamy, decadent flavor.
Dried fruit may be back-up players, but without them, many dishes wouldn't even make it to first base.
DRIED FRUIT SMOOTHIE
(Serves 2)
The flavors in this smoothie are
sinfully decadent. My favorite version
was made from dried plums
or prunes at a farmers' market.
Turkish apricots are very sweet,
and California apricots are tart.
I like the tart flavor for this recipe.
You may also want to try making
this smoothie with peaches, nectarines,
or cherries.
1 cup boiling water
10 pitted dried apricots or prunes
1/2 ripe banana
1/2 cup orange juice or the juice of one
orange
1 Tablespoon almond or cashew butter
Pour boiling water over fruit and
let sit overnight. Combine all
ingredients in a blender and
puree until smooth and creamy.
Add additional water if you like
a thinner consistency.
Total calories per serving: 146 Fat: 5 grams
Carbohydrates: 25 grams Protein: 3 grams
Sodium: 4 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams
DRIED FRUIT-NUT SPREAD
(Makes approximately 1 cup)
Spread this recipe onto toast, apple
slices, or celery sticks. You can also
make a tasty drink from this recipe
by simply blending in 2/3 cup water
and 2/3 cup orange juice with 2-3
Tablespoons of the spread.
1 cup dried apricots, mangos, peaches,
or nectarines
1 cup boiling water
2 Tablespoons almond butter, cashew
buffer, or peanut butter
1 Tablespoon lemon juice
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon lemon zest
Place fruit into a small mixing
bowl. Pour boiling water over
the fruit and allow to sit for a
few hours.
In a blender combine the
rehydrated fruit and nut butter
and blend until smooth and
creamy. Stir in lemon juice and
salt. Place in a small bowl and
garnish with lemon zest.
Total calories per 2-Tablespoon serving: 64
Fat: 2 grams Carbohydrates: 11 grams
Protein: 1 gram Sodium: 39 milligrams
Fiber: 2 grams
SPINACH SALAD
WITH PEARS AND
DRIED CRANBERRIES
(Serves 6)
* Pictured on the cover. For variety,
try arugula instead of spinach.
1/4 cup red wine vinegar (Rice vinegar or
white balsamic vinegar also work well.)
2-3 Tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, pressed
1 teaspoon apple juice concentrate
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon cayenne or black pepper
8 cups baby spinach
1 Bosc pear, seeded and diced
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1/4 cap lightly toasted, chopped walnuts
1/4 cup dried cranberries
Combine vinegar, olive oil, garlic,
concentrate, salt, and cayenne in a
glass jar. Cover with lid and shake
until blended.
Place spinach in a large salad
bowl. Pour dressing over spinach
and toss. Divide into salad bowls
and layer with pears, onions,
walnuts, and cranberries.
Total calories per serving: 130 Fat: 8 grams
Carbohydrates: 14 grams Protein: 3 grams
Sodium: 110 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams
APPLE-CARROT-CELERY
SALAD WITH DRIED
FRUIT DRESSING
(Serves 6)
The crunchy apples, celery, and
carrots contrast well with the tart
dried fruit.
2 tart or sweet-tart apples, peeled and
diced into small pieces (Granny Smith
or Pink Lady apples work well.)
1 1/2 cups grated carrots
1 cup finely diced celery
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 cup chopped tort apricots, sour cherries,
or fruit-sweetened dried cranberries
1/4 cup Dried Fruit-Nut Spread (page 8)
1-2 Tablespoons water to thin
Combine apples, carrots, celery,
and lemon juice. Toss until all
fruit is coated. Blend in cranberries.
Thin the Dried Fruit-Nut
Spread with water and blend in
with fruit and vegetables.
Total calories per serving: 75 Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 17 grams Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 42 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams
CURRIED LENTILS
WITH GOLDEN RAISINS
AND TOASTED CASHEWS
(Serves 4)
French lentils hold their shape well.
If they aren't available, you can use
brown or green lentils in this recipe.
Also, if you prefer your raisins to be
soft, add them into the vegetable
stock and cook them with the lentils.
1/4 cup cashews
1 teaspoon coriander
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/4 teaspoon cardamom
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon cloves
Generous pinch of cayenne
1 onion, finely diced
1 Tablespoon olive oil
3 cloves garlic, pressed
1 small, unpeeled sweet potato or yam,
washed, ends removed, and diced finely
1 heaping cup French, brown, or green
lentils
2 cups water or vegetable stock
Juice of 1 lemon (approximately 1/3 cup)
1/3 cup golden raisins
Salt to taste (approximately 1/2 teaspoon)
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley or cilantro
(optional)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Place the cashews on a baking
sheet and toast for 10 minutes
or until lightly browned. Remove
from oven and allow to cool.
Blend spices in a small bowl.
Heat a heavy skillet over medium
heat. Add onions and oil. Stir and
saute until soft. Blend in spices,
garlic, sweet potatoes, and lentils.
Pour in water or stock, stir, and
then cover and cook over medium-low
heat for 30-40 minutes,
adding more water if necessary.
When done, stir in lemon
juice, raisins, and salt. Garnish
with parsley or cilantro.
Total calories per serving: 338 Fat: 8 grams
Carbohydrates: 54 grams Protein: 15 grams
Sodium: 302 milligrams Fiber: 17 grams
MANGO CHUTNEY
OVER GRILLED TOFU
(Serves 6)
If you can't find low-sodium tamari
at a natural foods store, use low-sodium
soy sauce instead. Champagne
vinegar can be found in the salad
dressing aisle, and dried ginger is
near the dried fruit. If you can't
find it, check a natural foods store
or Asian market.
If you have leftover chutney, it
can be stored in the refrigerator for
one week. It's good over tofu and rice.
One 14-ounce block extra firm tofu
MARINADE
1/4 cup low-sodium tamari
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil
1 teaspoon vegan granulated sweetener,
such as Sucanat
1 teaspoon grated ginger
Pinch of cayenne
CHUTNEY
1 large tort apple (like a Granny Smith)
or 1 quince, peeled and diced
1 orange, thinly sliced
1/2 cup vegan granulated sweetener,
such as Sucanat
1/2 cup rice or champagne vinegar
1/2 cup finely diced dried mangos
2 Tablespoons minced onions
1 Tablespoon chopped dried ginger
1/2 teaspoon fresh grated ginger
Pinch of cinnamon
Pinch of cloves
1 clove garlic, pressed
Juice and zest of 1 small lime
Vegetable oil to prepare grill
Squeeze the water out of the tofu
and slice it into 6 pieces. Combine
marinade ingredients. Seal the
tofu slices in a freezer bag with
the marinade and refrigerate until
chutney is done.
Combine all chutney ingredients
in a saucepan and simmer
for 45 minutes.
Lightly oil the grill. Grill tofu
slices for approximately 4 minutes
each. Serve each slice over rice
and top with chutney.
Total calories per serving: 218 Fat: 4 grams
Carbohydrates: 34 grams Protein: 9 grams
Sodium: 495 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams
DATE BARS WITH
CRUMBLE TOPPING
(Makes 20 bars)
These bars are delicious served
warm with a scoop of vanilla
non-dairy frozen dessert.
3 cups diced dates
1/2 cup orange juice
1 cup water
1/2 cup nonhydragenated vegan margarine
1 cup maple syrup, or 1/2 cup maple syrup
and 1/2 cup vegan granulated sweetener
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
3/4 cup whole wheat flour
1 1/2 cups rolled oats
1 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
Vegetable oil to prepare pan
Cook dates with orange juice and
water over low heat until very
thick, stirring occasionally. Allow
mixture to cool.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
While fruit cooks, blend margarine
and maple syrup together until
smooth and creamy. In a separate
bowl, combine flours, oats, baking
soda, and salt. Cut the margarine-maple
syrup mixture into the
flour-oats mixture.
Spread half of the oat mixture
into a lightly oiled 9" x 13" baking
dish. Press and flatten. Spread
the thickened date mixture on
top of the oat mixture. Top with
remainder of crumble topping.
Pat down lightly.
Bake for 30-40 minutes. Top
should be lightly browned. Cut
into squares while warm and
remove from pan.
Total calories per bar: 239 Fat: 6 grams
Carbohydrates: 46 grams Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 141 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams
ORANGE FRUIT
SPICE CAKE
(Serves 8)
Unlike fruitcake, this spice cake is
light. I like to use a combination
of fruit, such as cherries, apricots,
and currants.
Vegetable oil to prepare pan
1 orange
Approximately 1/2 cup water to add
to orange juice
1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1 cup vegan granulated sweetener, such as
Sucanat or Rapadura
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1 teaspoon vinegar
1/3 cup oil
Cooking spray to prepare baking pan
3/4 cup currants, raisins, dried cherries,
or chopped dates or dried apricots, or
a combination of dried fruit
Lightly oil an 8" x 8" baking pan.
Zest the orange and set aside.
Juice the orange into a measuring
cup and add the water to make
the liquid equal 1 cup. Place cup
in the freezer for 10 minutes.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Combine orange zest, flour, sweetener,
baking soda, cinnamon,
nutmeg, and allspice. Mix well.
In a separate container, combine
vinegar and oil. Then, pour into
the flour mixture. Pour the cold
orange juice-water mixture over
the flour mixture. Stir just until
blended. Pour batter into the prepared
pan. Sprinkle dried fruit
over the batter and bake for 30
minutes.
Total calories per serving: 295 Fat: 10 grams
Carbohydrates: 52 grams Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 160 milligrams Fiber: 4 grams
Debra Daniels-Zeller is a frequent VJ contributor. She is a freelance writer who lives in Washington State.
Dry It--You'll Like It
In the book Dry It--You'll Like It, Gen MacManiman says you don't really need a dehydrator. Places to consider setting up drying trays include on top of the refrigerator or near a hot water heater or furnace, but remember most dehydrating is done in season, which means summer and autumn. However, a dehydrator can be invaluable; the sweet rewards are worth the investment. Approximate drying time is two or three days. Much of the timing depends on how thick the pieces of fruit are and how dry you want the fruit to be.
* Rinse fruit thoroughly. Remove pits and cut larger fruits, such as apples and peaches, into equal slices, less than a half-inch thick. Slice figs and plums into halves.
* While you prepare the fruit, preheat the dehydrator to at least 115 degrees. Fill each rack with prepared fruit, and then reduce the temperature to 100 degrees. As the fruit dries, the sugar concentrates, and soon you have the most tempting sweet treats.
* Check the fruit daily; do not over-dehydrate it, or it loses some flavor. Remove pieces when they are done. Store in covered containers in the refrigerator or freezer. Figs and large fruits that are only partially dehydrated are best stored in the freezer. The fruit stores well for at least six months.
